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When compiling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee well-known high-end establishments. However, nestled near the top among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

The little Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. This honour has made the owners completely surprised.

“I am utterly surprised,” states the proprietor, pointing to his family’s dedication that resulted in their small restaurant achieving such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its original character. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent quality.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can cost many times that price.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate beyond its own premises. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this culinary triumph.